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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.